Bartenders from Chicago to Accra are redefining the global cocktail scene by celebrating local culture. At Kumiko in Chicago, Julia Momosé serves a New Wave cocktail built on Japanese curry rice. Each ingredient mirrors a component of the dish. “it drinks like a Manhattan,” she says. Another drink, the Sea Flower, uses a rim of salt, sugar, nori, kombu, and MSG with kabosu juice and yuzu kosho, a fermented paste of yuzu and green chili.
A Global Recognition of Local Spirit
That focus on place earned Kumiko the top spot at the 2025 Tales of the Cocktail Spirited Awards. Hong Kong’s Bar Leone kept the top spot at the World’s 50 Best Bars, while Cartagena’s Alquímico placed third. Accra’s Front/Back became Africa’s best bar, with fellow Accra spot La Borracha also making the list.
The awards reflect a broader trend. Bars are moving beyond generic offerings to highlight regional ingredients and stories. Bar Leone bases its menu on Rome’s neighborhood bars. Its Olive Oil Sour incorporates Sicilian extra virgin olive oil into a whiskey sour with honey and lemon. Cartagena’s Alquímico ties its drinks to Colombian farmers, using ingredients like lulo, chontaduro, and viche, a sugarcane spirit with Afro-Colombian roots.
Milan Celebrates Japanese Craft
This global exchange was on display during The World’s 50 Best Bars Week in Milan. The House of Suntory’s Suntory Time events brought together bartenders to showcase Japanese cocktail culture. Momosé, who spoke at the event, led a masterclass on the precision of Japanese bartending using the Toki Highball. She emphasized omotenashi, a Japanese approach to hospitality focused on careful listening and respect for each guest’s needs.
Shingo Gokan, a bartender based in New York and Hong Kong, also participated. His guest shift featured playful flavors, including the Omatsuri Banana, which mixes Toki whisky with miso, chocolate, and caramelized banana. The event highlighted Japanese ingredients like sake and shōchū. Momosé, who was born in Japan, uses these spirits to introduce guests to Japanese culture. “If I can make them fall in love with sake through cocktails, maybe they’ll start ordering more sake as well,” she said.
Her path to owning Kumiko was not easy. She describes the industry as hard on women when she arrived in the United States. “There isn’t space made for us,” Momosé said. “We have to either make it ourselves or become indispensable in ways.” She proved herself by memorizing drink lists and bringing bottles to bartenders.
Being multicultural gives her a unique perspective. “Being multicultural, I can kind of speak both of those languages,” she said. “So, knowing what it is to not belong, I think helps me create space for other people.”
Front/Back, the new best bar in Africa, embodies this spirit of place. Located on First Osu Lane in Accra, it is a private members’ club focused on African and diaspora art and music. Its decor features work from over 40 artisans. The drink menu highlights local ingredients like ginger, wild honey, bissap, and moringa. The Spicy Note pairs tequila with house-made raspberry purée and hot pepper dust on the rim.
Japanese Ingredients and Global Influence
Japanese bartenders brought a focus on precision and seasonal ingredients to Milan. The Suntory Time events featured Roku Gin, Toki Japanese Whisky, and Haku Vodka. These spirits reflect Japanese concepts: Roku uses seasonal ingredients, Toki draws energy from contemporary Tokyo, and Haku is made from 100% Japanese white rice.
A New Era for African Bars
Those without membership can still visit The Container, a public art gallery at the club’s entrance. It is open Tuesday through Saturday from 1 to 7 p.m. and offers a glimpse into the cultural programming inside.
Identity and Community Behind the Bar
Julia Momosé, born and raised in Japan, sometimes must clarify that Kumiko is more than Japanese-inspired. “Kumiko is as Japanese as myself and our guests are,” she said. “When I have Japanese guests in the space, I’m speaking in Japanese [and] we’re doing our dance. It’s a language and dance that only we can do because we are Japanese together.” This authenticity extends to her cocktails, which often feature Japanese sake and shōchū.